Archaeological Remains in Kashmir-VIII

T N Khazanchi  

Jama Masjid

The most impressive and architecturally representative building of the wooden style in Kashmir is, however, the Jama Masjid in downtown Srinagar. It was founded in AD. 1400 by Sultan Sikander and enlarged by his son and successor, Zain-ul-Abidin, Though it was badly damaged by fires at least on three occasions, no drastic changes in its structural composition or plan were affected during its repairs. The final reconstruction took place during the reign of the Mughal emperor, Aurangzeb (A.D. 1658-1707). It fell into disuse later and has been restored only recently, without any alteration in its original plan. Though a considerable portion of this massive mosque is in brick, it contains in its interior a large amount of timber work in the form of pillars, aisles and cloisters Particularly noticeable are the lofty colonnades in timber extending around the entire building. There are three hundred and seventy eight lofty pillars varying from 25 feet to nearly 50 feet in height, each made out of a single deodar trunk, which make a distinctive pattern. The nave or the focal point is a fine open space contained within a double range of tall wooden pillars with an arched mihrab occupying the interior wall. Apart from the orthodox mosque plan, the huge structure contains all the architectural elements, essential components of the wooden style of Kashmir, which crystallised during the Muslim rule.

The mosque is the biggest structure of its kind in Kashmir, being a quadrangle and roughly square in plan. Its northern and southern sides are 384 in length which indicates the magnitude of the structure. Other distinctive features are the four minars, one in the middle of each side which are covered by a series of pyramidal roofs terminating in an open turret and crowned by a pinnacle. These minars surmount spacious arched entrances, except on the west, which contains the pulpit. Though the arched entrances are plain, but these are imposing. The western minar has larger dimensions.

No architectural building in the wooden style of Kashmir deserving any special notice was raised after the construction of Jama Masjid. With the advent of Moghuls towards the close of the sixteenth century the art of stone masonry was revived in the Valley. For this purpose, two hundred master builders were imported from outside Kashmir during Akbar's reign as has been indicated in an inscription on the main gate leading to the Hari Parbat Fort. The structures put up during Mughal rule reflect the architectural ideals of this dominating dynasty and in accordance with the style flourishing with vigour in their domains in other parts of the Empire. They were not affected in any manner by the indigenous wooden architecture of the Valley.

Moghul Architecture

In this category lie the massive stone gates, Kathi Darwaza and Sangin Darwaza leading to the Hari Parbat Fort, Pathar Masjid, and Akhun Mulla Shah's mosque in Srinagar.

The Kathi Darwaza and the Sangin Darwaza were put up during Akbar's reign. The Kathi Darwaza which was the principal entrance is a massive gate, simple in conception. It consists of a domed chamber in the centre with two side recesses. However, two medallions executed projectingly on the spandrels are distinctive. The Sangin Darwaza is a similar structure but more ornate. There are elegant orion windows on each side. The two other stone buildings of Moghul workmanship are of a slightly later date. The Pathar Masjid (stone mosque) is said to have been erected in A.D. 1623 under the orders of Nur Jahan, wife of Jehangir, while the Akhun Malla Shah's mosque seems to have been raised in AD 1649.

The Pathar Masjid built in A.D. 1623 is the largest surviving example of Moghul mosques in Kashmir. The face work is in local grey stone which is capable of receiving high polish, and excellent material for mouldings and carvings which are indicated in the workmanship. The facade consists of nine arches inclusive of the large arched portico in the centre. The mosque was never used for worship. Akhun Mulla Shah's mosque was built by Dara Shikoh in A.D. 1649 for his tutor, Akhun Mulla Shah. The mosque is in grey brickwork. The simplicity of its surface treatment and its architectural character are impressive. The pulpit has a stone lotus finial over it, which is the only one of its kind surviving in Kashmir.

Pari Mahal

Apart from the above, the Moghul occupation of the Valley is also characterised by other structural records mainly in brick masonry as at Pari Mahal (the Fairy Palace) on the hillside overlooking Dal Lake. It was primarily a summer resort and no architectural significance is in evidence here. The garden consists of six terraces with a total length of 400 feet. The width of the terraces varies from 179 feet to 205 feet.

Moghul Gardens

The Moghuls also bestowed their attention on laying out of terraced gardens at Shalimar, Nishat, Chashma Shahi, Achhabal and Verinag. These are very important tourist spots in the Valley. The locations were mostly ideally suited with lofty mountains in the background, some of these covered by tall pines, expansive lakes or bubbling springs in the foreground and gliding slopes for terraces. Special mention may, however, be made of the large baradari or the pavilion in the celebrated Shalimar Bagh, the garden of bliss. The black-stone pillars which still retain the polish and the sculptured brackets are very distinctive. Besides, there is the arcade round the spring at Verinag, 82 kilometres to the south-east of Srinagar. This was initially started during Jehangir's reign and completed by his son and successor, Shah Jehan. The structure is partly in brick and partly in stone. The arcade at Verinag with an octagonal basin have been put up round the spring which is the reputed source of river Jhelum.

Though Moghuls revived the art of stone masonry in the structures put up proved to be architectural impositions which were introduced in the Valley to satisfy the requirements of the masters. The traditional conceptions relating to the wooden style were unaffected by these productions. The influences whether Moghul or Persian, did not alter the architectural styles initiated under the Sultanate and perfected prior to the advent of the Moghuls. It continued on its course unaffected by these influences.

"... The Hindu does not want to live upon words and theories. If there are existences beyond the ordinary sensuous existence, he wants to come face to face with them. If there is a soul in him which is not matter, if there is an all-merciful Soul, he will go to Him direct. He must see Him, and that alone can destroy doubts... The Hindu religion does not consist in struggles and attempts to believe a certain doctrine or dogma, but in believing-not in believing, but in being and becoming..."

SWAMI VIVEKANANDA

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Courtesy:- T.N. Khazanchi and April-May 1995 Koshur Samachar