My Frozen Memories of the British Residency, Kashmir

Prem Nath Kaul  

It is now nearly fifty years that the British Paramountcy lapsed in India, bringing in its wake the end of the British rule and the simultaneous closure of the network of Political Agencies in the Indian states These Agencies, known as Residencies, were manned by a select band of British Political officers, with the Resident as their chief. Functioning as Offices of the then Political Department, the Residenceis assumed great importance in the states which enjoyed restricted powers during the days of the 'Raj' Not to speak of other restrictions, the states could not even correspond with the Centre, they were, instead, required to address the Residencies, but also conveyed back the replies received. The Residencies were, in fact, very powerful inasmuch as the Centre would not take any action in the affairs of the states without their approval.

My story takes me back to the early forties, when one Summer, the Resident, Sir James Glagow Acheson, ICS, CIE, was in camp in the famed hill-resort of Kokarnag (Kashmir). He was staying with his wife in a one-roomed Forest Rest House and I. his Personal Assistant, was accommodated in a tent. The Resident remained busy, even in camp, with urgent papers, sent through special couriers from the Residency at Srinagar

It was our last evening in Kokarnag and, like all pleasures, our one week's sojourn on this hillside was also coming to an end. Absorbed in these thoughts, I repaired to my tent for the night's rest

Next morning, the 'Khansaman' entered my tent to say" Panditji, you have caused much inconvenience to the "Ferrangis" (meaning Resident and his wife). Surprised, I asked, how?" I was told that a severe rainstorm had lashed these parts during the night, causing anxiety to the Resident on my account. Both he & Mrs. Acheson had visited me in rain to see if there was any leakage. Finding the bed on which I lay asleep, dry and no trace of leakage anywhere, the Resident had heaved a sigh of relief.

Dumbstruck for a while on this midnight adventure, I wondered that such a high British Officer, with the rank equal almost to that of a Governor, had visited me in midnight rain! True to the traditions of the service to which he belonged, the Resident never spoke to me about it but Mrs. Acheson did make a mention of this some days later. Capturing the splendour of those days, it was indeed a gracious act which is only within the realm of great minds. like that of an Acheson!

2. Nestling in the lap of the Himalayas, Leh, the Capital of Ladakh, is the subject of this story. Bordering Afghanistan (before partition), China and Tibet, Ladakh had (will always have) a strategic importance, which the British Government did not lose sight of. With a view to keeping an eye on the goings-on in this border area and for other administrative reasons (not discussed here), a skeleton office of the Residency functioned in Leh during the Summer months (June to September) under the charge of a Special British Joint Commissioner. In 1945, to which this article relates. FLudlow was appointed to this post and I was sent to run the office.

The people, not only of Leh, but of entire Ladakh, lived in abject poverty and ignorance-exploited for ages, they lived like primitive people. In fact, the rhythm of their lives had not changed for centuries. So poor were they, that they made fire by rubbing stones and so ignorant, that the Ladakhis brought 'hay' to 'feed' the first-ever aircraft that landed in Leh in 1962.

It was precisely about these very people that I was briefed by the then First Assistant Resident, Lesli Alfred Charles Fry, prior to my departure for Leh in June, 1945. He said with great emotion, "Mr Premnath, this year we have picked you for accompanying Ludlow to Leh. Please treat these people well. Speak to them gently and be kind to them. They are a simple, poor and innocent lot".

Listening to these words I was overcome with awe and admiration for Lesli Fry, a lesser Apostle, whose word radiated immense compassion for these 'natives'-forsaken by man and destiny!

(The Saga of Ladakh by Major General Jagjit Singh-Edition 1983, (page 33)).

3. I had yet another unforgettable experience when I accompanied in December, 1946 the newly appointed First Assistant Resident, Ronald Giles Daubeny, on his tour to some border posts of the State. Dhal-Mahmood (now in Pakistan) was the first border post which we visited. Arriving on a misty December morning, we drove straight to the Rest House where the State Officers were waiting for Daubeny. Before going to attend the meeting, Daubeny told me to wait for him in the Rest House.

As he did not return for a long time, I asked the Receptionist about his whereabouts. I was surprised to know that the Boss was taking his lunch across the border, under the shade of a tree. On his return, I ventured to ask, "Excuse me, Sir, why didn't you avail of the Rest House facilities for lunch?" Quick was his reply with a smile, "I had purchased a small can of beef en route. I would have violated the State law if I had consumed it here". Taken aback, I whispered "who would have noticed this violation in the Rest House? None, and but for my query, not even I". For this officer principles were principles: the law of the land had to be respected. Such was the character, in general, of these officers-in shade and light!

I hope our bureaucrats and their higher-ups are listening. Are they?

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Courtesy:- Prem Nath Kaul and 1996 November Koshur Samachar