Ancient Temples of lord Shiva In The Himalayas - Part III
Dr B L Bradoo
Introduction: The first two parts appeared in Naad (Dec.2014 and May 2015). This concluding article, describes 19 significant temples of Lord Shiva from the Garhwal and Kumaon Himalayas. However, the three ancient Kedar temples of Madhya Maheshwar (11,450ft), Kalpeshwar (7,500ft) and the cave temple of Rudranath (8,750ft), have not been covered, as they involve a difficult trek for 7-10 days, during the summer months. The Neelakant Mahadev (5,500 ft) near Rishikesh, also involves a climb of 17kms, partly motorable and partly on foot, has also not been covered yet.
This study was possible due to my summer time travels, along with my wife, to whom I am indebted for her moral support, enabling me to complete this difficult work that involved extensive travelling on motorable roads, and difficult treks on foot or horseback, in the Himalayas, considered as the abode of Gods.
From Garhwal Himalayas
1. Chandreshwar Mahadev temple: is an ancient temple located at Devprayag (2,265 ft), a little below the Raghunath temple. It has a tall dome with a rectangular shikhar, with openings on all sides and a metallic Kalash on the top. There are many Shivling and the temple is visible from a distance. A frail pujari, who is a Shiv bakhta, is the all time caretaker of this temple. Nearby there are two libraries with several old handwritten manuscripts, in Garhwali and Hindi language. Some rare books on astronomy, palmistry, ayurveda and the vedic literature were also noticed. A rare manuscript of Garhwali Ramayana, dated 1620 AD, is well preserved along with many other smaller manuscripts that need a hand lens for study. A beautiful Nandi faces towards the temple.
2. Kamleshwar Temple, Srinagar: - This ancient capital of Garhwal is 30 km away from Dev Prayag. It is the most popular temple located at 1837 feet above sea level, and 150 meters away from the NH-58 towards Alaknanda, near the local public school. It is said that Lord Rama after killing Rawan worshipped Lord Shiva at this temple with 1000 lotus flowers. But when one lotus was less, he decided to offer one of his eyes. But Lord Shiva appeared at once and was pleased with Lord Ram also known as the lotus eyed Kamal Nay an. On Vaikuntha Chaturdashi, locals along with their women, come here in large numbers to worship Shiva for the entire night with lighted lamps, to get a child. The temple has a rectangular mandapam followed by a tall dome with an Amalaka on the top having a Kalash and a red flag.
3. Gangeshwar Mahadev temple: is present, one each at Rudrapray ag, Karna Prayag and Nanda Prayag. At 1 Rudraprayag this temple of Shiva, also called Rudranath, stands under the shade of a large peepal tree. Narad Muni worshipped Shiva at this place. Who taught him music in the form of a Rudra. The rock on which Narad 'worshipped, got carried away in the floods long back. The sanctum sanctorum is very simple with one-foot-tall lingam and 2 feet tall idol of Parvati. Two Nandis are present in the open mandapam. At Karna Prayag, a small Shiva temple exists besides the famous temple of Kama. The Gangeshwar Mahadev temple at Nand Prayag is located across the bridge on the Alaknanda river under a large peepal tree. A beautiful Nandi faces the sanctum that has a large Shiviingam. Maharishi Kanva had his Ashram nearby. A small Shiva temple is also present at Vishnu Prayag and at Gangotri temple and also at Gaurmukh, the source of the holy Ganga.
4.Chandra Shekhar Mahadev temple: is located at Gupta Kashi, 45 km from Rudraprayag on the Kedarnath route. This temple is situated at 4850 ft. above the sea level. It is constructed in a Nagara style with a mandapam and tall dome. The mandapam has a sloping stone tiled roof. On the top of the entrance is an image of a Bhairava, considered as a form of Shiva. Lord Shiva selected this area as a secret place to hide himself, to avoid the Pandavas, and hence the name Guptkashi. On the left side is a small shrine of Ardhanareeswara with a very beautiful metallic Nandi found in a seated position facing the temple. Some locals call the main temple as the Vishwanath temple and a natural spring called Manikarnika Kund is present near the temple.
5.Koteshwar Mahadev: is located to the north of Rudraprayag, 7 kms ahead on the road to Pokhri. This temple is a natural cave shrine having countless Shivlings formed by dropping of ice-cold water from the roof. The cave lies at a beautiful spot along the placid waters of the Alaknanda, that flows a few meters away from this cave. A local legend mentions that when Lord Shiva was threatened by the cunning Bhasmasur who had been given a boon by the Lord, that if he touched any one’s head, that person would burn into ashes. Then Bhasmasur wanted to try this on Lord Shiva himself. So Shiva ran away to this cave and prayed to Lord Vishnu, who transformed into a beautiful Mohini and tricked Bhasmasur to touch his own head. So he died immediately. Then Lord Shiva meditated in the cave before he left for Kedarnath. It is said that thousands of years ago, there were countless ice lingams of all sizes within a 3 km radius of this Koteshwara cave. Devotees come here on the day of Shivaratri, for worship in this cave temple that abounds in amazing aura and energy that transforms an individual spiritually. A similar story is also told for the Shiv Khori cave found near Riasi in Jammu.
6.Gopeshwar: This Shiva temple, also called as Gopinath mandir, is located in the Chamoli district. It is said that once Lord Shiva and Parvati wanted to enjoy the Rasaleela of Lord Krishna, some 5000 years ago. So Shiva decorated himself in a sari, like a Gopi, but was not allowed to get in by one Vrindadevi, at the entrance. She stopped him and advised Mahadev to take a bath at the Mansarovar lake. After that Lord Shiva attained a female form, and went in for the Rasaleela programme.
n seeing this new Gopi, Lord Krishna called her aloud as Gopeshwara! At this, Radha got upset and Krishna replied, I just called myself as Gopeshwara, so Radha became calm and Shiva and Parvati enjoyed the Rasaleela.
The Gopeshwar Mahadev temple shows beautiful architecture, with a large 30 square feet sanctum accessible by many doors. Some broken idols present around the temple complex indicate the existence of several more temples here in the ancient times. A 5 meter high metal trident of 12th century made of 8 different metals having some inscriptions on it is fixed in the temple courtyard. It is believed that it was thrown by angry Lord Shiva at Kamadeva and it got fixed here. No one can even move it, but a true devotee succeeds in inducing a slight tremor on it.
From Kumaon Himalayas
7. Agvari Mahadev temple: is located 3 km from the beautiful hill station of Gwaldam. The road winds up through a lush green oak forest till we reach a tiny hamlet called Benatoli. From here two narrow paths lead towards the Agyari temple. The right path is about 4 km long, but the left path leads towards the Bhim Pathar rock that is said to have been kicked by Bheem, whose footprint is visible on it. The left path affords a gentle access and shows some mighty Himalayan peaks at a distance in the north. It is said that one Angrishi meditated here where the Shiva temple has been constructed in the ancient period. Devotees visit here during the festival season. From here, the famous place of Uttarakhand’s Baijnath (another is in Mandi, HIP) is only 20 km away.
8. Baijnath: shows a cluster of 18 ancient temples, now in ruins, built chiefly in the 11th century. The main attraction is the Parvati temple with a 2 meter high, Blackstone image inside the sanctum. Baijnath is a small town, located on the bank of river Gomti And has many historical ruins, that are about nine centuries old. The Parvati temple is magnificent and the surroundings are very enchanting, located on a hilltop giving a majestic view of the snow-clad Trishul and the Nanda Devi peaks in the distance.
These ancient temples were built by the Katyuri kings and include the temples of Lord Shiva, Parvati, Ganesh, Chandika, Kuber, Suryanarayan and Lord Brahma. These temples are known to have been built between the 9th and 12th century. The unique feature is that the stone slabs are said to be held by a binder of ‘Urad dal’ and lime mixture. Because it has been eaten away by the years, a complex of shrines now actually leans to one side. Only the main Parvati temple has been kept open, but the other shrines have been locked, because of the theft and damage caused by bad elements. The locals respect the place with deep veneration. According to a local myth, Lord Shiva and Parvati were married here in the presence of Lord Brahma, at the confluence of river Gomti and the Garur Ganga.
Bageshwar: It is an important pilgrim center of Kumaon, located at 3200 ft above sea level. It is 23 km from Baijnath and lies at the confluence of Gomti and the Saryu river. There is a large temple complex built in 1602, by one Raja Lakshmi Chand. It houses the idols dating from 7th to the 16th century. These temples have a large number of bells that come alive during the local ‘Uttrayani Mela ’around die time of Makar Sankranti in January every year.
Most of the stone temples here are dedicated to Lord Shiva. Among these the famous Bagnath temple of Lord Shiva located near the confluence of Gomti and Saryu, is about 1 km distance from the main chowk. This temple has main central Mandapam with a large number of bells hanging from a horizontal bar. A large rectangular entrance leads to the mandapam, followed by a tall dome having a rectangular Shikhar with five openings on each side and a metallic Kalash on the top. The dome is slightly on the left side with a flat Arnalaka on its top. A Dharamshala has also been constructed on the right side and there are two Nandis in front of the temple.
Neeleshwar and Bheeleshwar are two facing hills within an easy distance from Bageshwar. A 15 km motorable road goes up to Bheeleshwar, but Neeleshwar is an easy 30 minute climb up some flight of stairs, and there is a Chandika temple on its top. From this place the road leads to beautiful hill station called Kausani.
10. Someshwar: is a small little town, located 9 km distance from Kausani regarded as the Switzerland of India. After reaching Someshwar, a narrow lane near the Talli Bazar leads to an old crumbling small but ancient Shiva temple that was built by Raja Som Chand, the founder of the Chand dynasty of the Kumaon region. This Someshwar temple is not in a good shape. A priest performed some pooja in the sanctum containing a Shivling on a pranali. Some locals were observed washing clothes at the natural water source near the temple.
From Someshwar, it is only 28 km distance, to reach a nine-hundred-year-old famous Sun temple of Katarmal located on a hill. It is the only Sun temple in the state of Uttarakhand. The Katarmal complex has 40 smaller shrines around the main Sun temple. There are heaps of fallen stones all around. Kosi river flows nearby in the east of this valley. Almora city is just 15 km away from Katarmal.
Almora: This city is located on a 5 km horseshoe-shaped ridge, at 5400 ft. height in the Katyuri valley of central Kumaon, and shows the pristine charm of natural beauty. It was the capital of the Chand dynasty in mid 16th century. Almora has some beautiful temples which include the famous Nanda Devi temple near the Lala Bazar, Kesar Davi temple (5741 ft.) near the Mall Road, and the famous Gollu Devta temple at Chitai. This road finally leads to enchanting region of Jageshwar. The idol of Nanda Devi is actually located inside the ante chamber of the Shiva temple. A five day festival of this goddess is celebrated every year that was started 400 years back, by one Raja Kalyan Chand. This temple was made by his ancestor, Raja Dyan Chand. The famous G.B. Museum is located near the main bus stand.
Jageshwar: This sacred place is 34 km from Almora, located at 6170 ft. above the sea level, inside a dense deodar forest. It is a sacred tirtha of the Kumaon region with great religious and archaeological significance. There are more than 124 carved stone temples of variable sizes, dating back to 5th to 11th century. It is located on the Almora-Pithoragarh Road. The original number of these ancient temples was nearly 400. Most of these, have a stone lingam and beautifully carved doorways and square sanctums. These temples are now under restoration by the Archaeological Survey of India (A.S.I). It is said that this elaborate temple construction was done by the Katyuri kings and continued upto the Chand period, from 15th to 18th century. Such a large number of temples, more than hundred, have also been reported from Aihole in Karnataka South India, made by the Chalukyan rulers, covering about 8 sq. km area.
Here at Jageshwar, the three main shrines are Jageshwar Shiv temple, Mahamrityunjaya temple and the Pushti Devi temple. Out of these, the Jageshwar temple is the tallest and has two unique stone statues standing as guards in front of the temple. The sanctum is topped by a tall dome or a Shikhara topped by flat Amalaka (capstone) and a crown of Kalash on the top. The Mahamrityunjaya temple is the oldest and its sanctum is cave like, with many pillars and doors carved magnificently. The other Shiva temples in the parikrama are built in Nagara style with stone lingams inside. There are other temples also dedicated to Surya Narayan, Navadurga, and the Kalika Mata. Most of these show a triratha or a panchratha sanctums, roofed by short heavy shikhara and preceded by a porch adding sometimes a mandapa in between.
According to a local legend, Lord Shiva came down to Jageshwar to escape the severe cold at his permanent abode at Mt. Kailash. A little above is the Kuber - group of temples and a Brahma Kund, were pilgrims take a bath in the ice cold water. Many precious and ancient idols at Jageshwar, like those of Parvati, Chamunda, Ganesh, Shiva heads, Lakhshmana, Garuda, Surya on a chariot with 7 horses, Kartikeya, Ganga on a crocodile etc., are now deposited for safety in the ASI museum present nearby. It remains open for public view from 10 AM to 4PM, but Fridays are closed days.
13 Mukteshwar: is a Shiva temple located at about 7500 ft. above the sea level and is said to be 350 years old. This temple is set on a highest point in the area and is architecturally simple, made of bricks and cement. Its walls are painted white and hung with bells and tridents. Several steps lead up about 250 meters towards the temple. It is roughly 51 km from Nainital and the road has many bends. The famous ancient British period building of I.V.RJ. is nearby in the town. From this temple area, one can enjoy the view of Ramgarh valley in the south and Almora valley in the north. Large number of pine, oak and fruit trees are present all over the area which provides a fabulous view of the Himalayan peaks of Trishul, Nanda Devi, and the five peaks of Panchachuli etc. observed clearly on the sunny days. Here the market is small but well stocked with various eatables like jams, jellies and juices.
14. Bheemeshwar Mahadev temple: is present at Bhimtal, located on the bank of Bhimtal lake, built in the 17th century by one Baz Bahadur, the king of Kumaon region of the Chand dynasty. This area was visited by the famous Pandavas of the Mahabharata fame, during their Vanvas. This temple is constructed on a tall raised plinth of red sandstone, with a front door and the main dome on the sanctum. Bheem worshipped Lord Shiva at this Spot.
15. Mrityunjaya Temple Dwarhat: Dwarhat means way to heaven. This beautiful place is 38 km from Ranikhet and was the principal seat of the Katyuri kings, whose empire stretched from Satluj to Gandak, and the whole of Rohilkhand. Later, it came under the Chand rulers. Dwarhat has several temples that show unique design architecture and characteristic Gurjari School of Art. Various temples are divided into different groups. Some have great value but got destroyed and damaged in a massive earthquake, in 1803. Now there are about 55 temples as per the study of the A.S.l. They are made of granite stone blocks, each with a Shikhara.
Most of these temples date back to 10th to 12th centuries, when Katyuri kings were in power. The large Mrityunjaya temple, some locals believe, is a Vishnu temple and therefore prefer to call it as Badrinath temple. However, the original name indicates it was basically a Shiva temple, as the images of Shiva and other gods are present in the sanctum. This area mostly remains deserted except for some occasional tourists who come here while on their way to Kama Prayag, via NH- 87.
16 Rudreshwar: This Mahadev temple of Chaukhutja is dedicated to Lord Shiva, situated at the village Sanana, along the banks of Ram Ganga river. This historic temple has been renovated recently. It is said that Lord Rama worshipped here and hence the name of river is Ram Ganga which is easily visible from the temple Complex. The other temples at Chaukhutja are those of Kali Mata, Vaishnav Devi and Lakhanpur temple. It was the capital of king Virata of the Mahabharata fame. The five Pandavas also stayed here during their travel to Swargarohini mountains located beyond the sacred Badrinath temple. From Chaukhutia, the NH-87 leads towards Kamaprayag via Adi-Badri. This place is famous for the origin of the ancient Saraswatj River from the Himalayas, that later became extinct.
17. Pancheswar: is a sacred temple at the foot hills of India - Nepal border on river Sharda and Kali, near Lohaghat, in Distt. It is visited during Navratri by Kunmaoni and Gardwali People. There are five white smaller shrines located close to the hill side, each has rectangular room in front and a small dome behind, located slightly at different levels and joined by few flight of stairs. Rich deodar forest is all around the largest shrine which houses an idol of Shiva. The Shviling is encircled by Vasuki Nag. A dip at the confluence of two rivers is considered to be very sacred. The Lord is offered bells and milk by the locals who believe that it protects the animals of the village. From the main road, it is 200 metres away and 60 km from Champawat bus stand, but is nearer from Lohagat.
18. Baleshwar temple: is present in the heart of Champawat city, made by the Chand rulers. It shows delicate architecture and beauty that it has endured since the 10th century. The roof and outer walls of the shrine are splendidly carved. The inner sanctum is small. The temple is a few steps away from the main bazaar, on the road that comes from Lohagat and is located on the hill behind a few shops.
19. Nagnath temple: is the ancient Shiva temple of Champawat. The temple is a double storey wooden structure along with a carved doorway, which shows an ancient Kumaoni architecture style. In the 18th century, this temple was partially damaged by the Gurkha and Rohilla invaders, but now it is in a better condition. The lingam is present on a pranali, protected by a large hooded Vasuki Nag, that encircles the lingam and locals call it Nagnath Ji. They visit this temple with many gifts to please the lord.
Conclusion: A total of 31 ancient temples of Lord Shiva have been described from J&K, Himachal and the Uttarakhand Himalayas. Some of these reveal a unique design and architecture, and have been declared as the protected National Monuments, by the Govt, of India. A few of these temples like Kedarnath, involve a long difficult trek. The clean, unpolluted and freezing environment at higher altitudes makes one feel that Lord Shiva is always with you and leaves a lasting impression on your mind.
The beautiful snow clad peaks bathed in sunshine, appear as natural Shivlings, induce calm and peace of mind in the individual. It may be mentioned here that the travel to various distant sacred shrines in the Himalayas, needs constant patience and perseverance. It leaves one mesmerized with some spirituality and the existence of god, that remains always enshrined in our memory.
Discaimer:
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Courtesy:- Dr. B. L. Bradoo and 2015 October Naad